Firstly, being that English is not very widely spoken here at all, combined with the fact that I am trying to learn the language as fast as I can, I am experiencing the strange nuances of being a 'gringo' (foreigner) here. I find myself thinking in Portuguese, which despite being quite an interesting experience, is problematic for general cognition considering the extent of my vocabulary. I also am finding myself in a peculiar situation where no one seems to understand me when I say 'metro' - as in 'onde esta o metro?' (where is the metro). I am assessed, on multiple occasions, as if I have just asked for directions to the cheese cake. Having discovered that the stress of the word is on the final syllable, not the first, I have tailored my inquisition, only to find the same result. It is bizarre, considering that fact that I am able to talk with a Brazilian for a few minutes now with full fluency. Either it is just me, or perhaps it is a national prank to gringoes - either way, I shall keep you informed.
One of Brazil's beauties is that so many of its inhabitants are extraordinarily friendly, always welcoming and, especially in Rio, constantly in the mood for a street party on nearly every night of the week. The party music is a far cry from Britney's new hit being blasted from a stereo - Starting with a deeply hypnotic, rhythmic drum beat in local squares and dance schools at around 10pm, the percussion music crescendos, before miniature guitars and similar string instruments accompany the traditional sound with singing and mesmerising impromptu dancing. Within seconds, you cannot help but be drawn outside to watch the dancing, and not a moment later, at no less than 10 meter intervals, are vendors selling beer, bracelets, bags, hotdogs, hats, harmonicas, sandals, sunglasses, samba CDs - anything you can (and can't) think of, there is someone there hoping for your business. These parties are usually on Monday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday night, lasting until 2am during the week, 4am on weekends. The live music is accompanied by open-front bars loudly playing live Bossanova and Samba music, and attracts hundreds of visitors.
I experienced a similar atmosphere on Sunday when Flamengo, a Rio football team won the National League for the first time in 18 years, at the Maracanã (the world's largest capacity football stadium, below - with 120,000 seats) that I visited the day before. A nail-biting 2-1 victory against Grêmio ensured a big night celebrations, and proved that as popular as football is in the UK, there are none more passionate than Brazilians... a fact, I discovered, that has an unfortunate flip side.
A team's supporters that were suffered relegation that night began a riot at the stadium. Pictures on the news showed riot police unconscious on the pitch and being airlifted away. Opposition fans were left blooded on the street, some clearly without their teeth. I had befriended an English couple, Scott and Laura, at my hostel and enjoyed celebrations with them at Copacabana, and on our way back to the hostel from the metro station at 9 o'clock, we were ambushed by a gang of teenagers, a dozen strong, from a local favela, at least one carrying a knife. We only suffered a few light punches and a few grazes - the couple were relieved of their camera (and holiday photos), watch and glasses, and I was fortunate to not have lost anything. As we collected ourselves and made our way to the hostel, we saw police caught up in a fight with the same boys. Perhaps more shocking for me than being robbed was seeing two policemen strike two boys simultaneously in the stomach with their batons, trying to disperse the gang. A few days prior to this, there had been a grenade set off on a commuter bus in Copacabana - an assertion, I am informed, of the Maffia's grip on the city.
It is clear that there is a lot of passion and a lot of poverty in Brazil, and this emerges in many fashions. As welcoming and enjoyable as the city can be, it is clear that one has to always be aware of the other face to this and never be without savvy at the best of times.
Thank you Dan for your colourful description of life in Rio. It is always illuminating to see the world through the eyes of a traveller - you seem to have captured the spirit of your surroundings. As a one-time traveller to Brazil myself (other than when Vesna and I were parked on the tarmac of Sao Paulo airport for two hours last year) I can honestly say that I did not stand in the path of a knife-wielding 'football supporter' nor stand with my colleagues while they were unceremoniously robbed. I am very much enjoying your travelogue - nicely written and highly informative! Keep them coming please!
ReplyDeleteTake care of You. Dad.